Mate, the best waves are going unridden, and the tide's gonna kill it soon. |
Waves that at home would have had me putting life on hold and scrabbling frantically for board and wax now passed by unridden. |
There were about 15-20 people in the water yet there were many unridden waves. |
Within three minutes another set approached, and I'd almost made it routine to let the first wave roll through unridden. |
Yet in between the big ones, the ten-footers continued to roll through unridden and after an hour I caught myself thinking, well, geez, I could have ridden that one. |
This was the Harley-Davidson he kept in a loft, unridden, gleaming on a plinth. |