“There are beautifully fried morsels of goat cheese, too, in a vibrant, tomatoey sofrito sauce that has an earthy red-chile undertone.”

“A dish of gnocchi with spicy house sausage and favas, for instance, may turn out to be a wildly salty and tomatoey riot that pummels the poor little favas into submission.”

“A too tomatoey caponatina still outperformed the somewhat limp piece of bass it accompanied.”