| Here's a view of the aft port lower knee with the new chainplate temporarily clamped to it for some test fitting. |
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| Cracking or distortion on the deck around the chainplate may indicate a misalignment problem and or a deck leak. |
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| Actually, one side and the ends should be packed, then the chainplate slid in and bolted in place. |
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| You can see these in the third photo, which shows the profile of the chainplate and backing plate. |
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| There would be little benefit to adding a chainplate a few inches to the port side of the tiller. |
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| This turnbuckle fastens to the chainplate with a jaw fitting and pin, and is swaged to the wire rope stay. |
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| By making a hook at each end I could attach the wire to the chainplate and put a pen in the other end. |
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| Now, speaking about chainplate width in particular, not enough people seem to realise how important this is. |
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| The pin shown to the right is almost certainly smaller than the hole in the chainplate allowing it to tilt. |
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| They should be large enough to project from the sides of the chainplate by a good 12 mm all round. |
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| A moulded internal grid strengthens the skin and provides the pickup points for the chainplate and keel loads. |
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| The loads from this inner chainplate are fed through an internal strut to a moulded hull grid. |
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| These had once held a turnbuckle to a chainplate but I'd apparently decided they were bent, so I'd replaced them. |
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